In recent years, Panerai has been notably slimming down the giant watches it’s known for. For instance, we’ve seen 40mm models introduced to its diving-themed Luminor line. Now that rollout is hitting Radiomir.
Quaranta means forty in Italian, and after launching several Panerai Radiomir Quaranta eSteel models for the Chinese market earlier this year, a more precious Goldtech model now joins the line-up.
Quaranta means forty in Italian, and after launching several Panerai Radiomir Quaranta eSteel models for the Chinese market earlier this year, a more precious Goldtech model now joins the line-up.
Goldtech is Panerai’s version of Rolex’s Everose or Omega’s Sedna Gold, which the Swiss-Italian watchmaker says features a mix of platinum and copper, all serving up gold with a redder hue. Goldtech is now used across the portfolio, from the Submersible to Luminor collections.
The new Panerai Radiomir Quaranta in Goldtech has a smart-looking polished gold case and matching bezel, complemented by a white sun-brushed dial that’s been given a galvanic treatment.
While the latter is not new to watchmaking, it’s quite new at Panerai, and offers a more traditional and refined look. The signature sandwich dial is also quite clean, with only numerals at 12 and six o’clock, indexes for the rest, with a date window at three o’clock and small seconds at nine. There’s an oversized transparent sapphire caseback, showcasing the P.900 automatic movement. With a lug-to-lug ratio of 48mm, the watch comes in at just 10.15mm thick, making it the slimmest case in Panerai’s entire portfolio.
While the latter is not new to watchmaking, it’s quite new at Panerai, and offers a more traditional and refined look. The signature sandwich dial is also quite clean, with only numerals at 12 and six o’clock, indexes for the rest, with a date window at three o’clock and small seconds at nine. There’s an oversized transparent sapphire caseback, showcasing the P.900 automatic movement. With a lug-to-lug ratio of 48mm, the watch comes in at just 10.15mm thick, making it the slimmest case in Panerai’s entire portfolio.
Most notably, the Panerai Radiomir Quaranta watch is waterproof to 50 meters. This is higher than the typical 30 meters you’d usually find across Panerai’s collections (it also ups the 30m waterproofness of the first eSteel Radiomir Quaranta models). As ex-military timepieces, Panerai famously puts it watches through their paces in terms of waterproof and water pressure testing, with rigorous standards that the company says tests watches at the indicated depth plus a buffer of 25 percent, to ensure extra safety.
Ask long-time watch enthusiasts what makes them keep wearing a watch over time, and comfort and classic styling will be a recurring trait. Hence, it’s not surprising that Panerai is moving in the direction of more popular sized, slimmer and wearable designs.
The brand may have made its name in oversized hamburger watches – picked up by fans who loved the Italian military and frogmen connections – but equally, Panerai fans have been asking for more wearable sizes, and the brand must evolve and play the long game. The company may date back to 19th century Italy, but it only began commercial watch production in 1992 (1997 for the Radiomir), with historic models shrouded in military secrets. By the way, 1992 isn’t much earlier than when Richard Mille or FP Journe started, and indeed Panerai has always had the feel of a young watchmaker despite being 163-years strong.
The brand may have made its name in oversized hamburger Panerai Radiomir Quaranta watches – picked up by fans who loved the Italian military and frogmen connections – but equally, Panerai fans have been asking for more wearable sizes, and the brand must evolve and play the long game. The company may date back to 19th century Italy, but it only began commercial watch production in 1992 (1997 for the Radiomir), with historic models shrouded in military secrets. By the way, 1992 isn’t much earlier than when Richard Mille or FP Journe started, and indeed Panerai has always had the feel of a young watchmaker despite being 163-years strong.
This new Radiomir Quaranta in Goldtech essentially offers fans a Panerai-styled dress watch. It’s classic 40mm size, compact lug-to-lug measurement and refined thickness will easily slip under a dinner jacket, as the polished gold finish adds a touch of elegance to the evening. I expect new clients as much as existing Paneristi die-hards will like the watch, the latter especially, who now have an additional dress option while still being able to keep things in the family, so to speak.
The 40mm size is a big deal – and a big jump down from 45mm, the next available size in the Radiomir line – and I expect we’ll see more Quaranta iterations in the coming years. The Quaranta name is also clear, digestible and very Italian, semaphoring the brand’s DNA well as it seeks a broader base.
Finally, the 50m waterproofness is an important development, and which will satisfy those Paneristi die-hards and frogmen fanatics. Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech may not have the typical wrist presence that Panerai is known for, but the technical specs still make a statement.
The Radiomir Quaranta Steel collection brings a casual touch to one of Officine Panerai’s most classic formats. The collection is a modern interpretation of their first-ever watch, bringing the look of the legendary divers of the 1940s to contemporary, enthusiast-friendly proportions. Pared down yet commanding in presence, the Radiomir Quaranta features Panerai’s iconic details and precision reinvented in a stylish, everyday package.